France May to Jul 17 - week 5 - 24 to 30 Jun 17

Saturday. The Bar at the site at La Rochelle was meant to be open for breakfast in the morning but they obviously couldn't be bothered, so we didn't stay to watch the Lions game and we moved further down the coast to Chatelaillon-Plage for their fete de la musique weekend. We eventually found the site, which was nearly full, and appears to be very popular with UK and Dutch regulars. We pitched up and walked into town along the beach for 3.5 km, mooched around the various stands and events, walked back, picked up the bikes and cycled back in, but there was not much happening. Had a panini and then "chippis" (like churros only French) then cycled back and walked to the local beach at 2330 to watch the fireworks.

Security was very much in evidence with vehicles parked across the road and at junctions.

The author of the book I bought personalised it for me.

Chippis

After a late night we had a lazy Sunday morning, awoken by the dawn chorus of booming Dutch conversation. We once again cycled into town and watched an excellent parade. Once again, security was very tight, with armed troops patrolling.  

After all the activity at the weekend we thought that we would see what the town was like on a normal Monday. There was not a soul around - a typical French Monday (they don't want to work too hard do they). The weather was cloudy in the morning but brightened up later so we sat by the pool for a couple of hours before cooking chicken kebabs and ratatouille on the grill.

Fort Boyard

On Tuesday we drove the short distance to Rochefort, a pleasant enough small town with an impressive Louis XIV port containing the rebuilt square rigged frigate Hermione. Rochefort was once a powerhouse of Navy shipbuilding and the long rope walk building with obvious subsidence (the walls are very bowed) is very impressive. It is, however, very expensive for a ticket to the museums. We ate a gauffre in the square where Gene Kelly danced with Catherine Deneuve in the 1966 film "young girls of Rochefort", but the only dancing we did was to shelter from the massive thunderstorm, the first serious rain we had suffered in 4 weeks.  We retired for a quiet night on the aire in the port.

Hermione

Rope Walk

The forecast for the following days wasn't good, so on Wednesday we made the long drive to the Loire, deciding enroute to head for Saumur.  We stopped for provisions at a big supermarket about 20 miles from Saumur just as the heavens opened with a tremendous thunderstorm. Luckily we just made it back to the van before the thunder and hail hammered down and made it impossible to converse without shouting.  Once things had calmed down a bit, we continued on to the excellent Flower Camping Ile d'Offard site on an island in the Loire. After settling in we walked though the charming town and arrived back for dinner just as the heavens opened again.

Saumur

On Thursday we explored the chateau, walked to the belvedere at the top with a breathless, excitable young french guide. We then found our way to a vigneron for tour of the massive underground ex-quarry used to store their wines, followed by a very generous tasting session, purchasing some wine in boxes and then having to buy a shopping trolley to get it back to the campsite. It rained again.

The bargain trolley

Friday. It rained all day. It peed down. It was cold and dank. We walked to what was meant to be a market but was in fact 5 rubbish stalls, we walked back again and spent the afternoon deciding if we preferred Saumur or Alsace cremant. We drank so much that we forgot what our findings were........